May half term seems to be the first holiday of the year where everyone wants to get away. The weather is warming up, sea temperatures are rising and the sun is (mostly) shining throughout the Northern Hemisphere. It is the shoulder season before peak season prices kick in and a great time to find a holiday bargain.
This year we travelled to Baska, on the Island of Krk, in Croatia. My parents in law were travelling in Europe and their tour finished in Zagreb so we decided it would be a great opportunity to meet them for a holiday.
Flights
We found flights with Croatia Airlines, through Skyscanner. Unfortunately we had left it a little late to secure the best deals. Flying over the weekend was prohibitively expensive so we looked for flights either side. The best deal we found was to fly return from London to Zagreb on Friday evenings. The total price of our flights for four people and one piece of checked baggage was £638.
Croatia Airlines were a good airline. Check in was quick and efficient and the flight was on time. On board we were served with complimentary drinks and snacks.
It should be noted that Croatia Airlines only accept pushchairs as free child related luggage. We had to pay for an extra checked bag to take our car seats.
Rental Cars
As we were travelling with my in-laws we needed either a car that seated six people, plus luggage, or two separate cars. After assessing the options, and discovering that a people carrier was a lot more expensive than hiring two cars, we opted for two compact cars (Opel Astra) at a cost of £54 each for seven days. We booked the cars with Sixt, through Ryanair.
We declined any additional insurance and used the annual policy we have for car rentals. See my tips on saving money on renting a car for further details.
We drove a total of 550km in each car over the duration of the week and used only three quarters of a tank of petrol. This cost £36 each when we refueled before returning the cars.
Note, the rental company will tell you that there is no petrol station near to the airport but that they do a good deal on refuelling the car so you don’t need to bring it back full. This is not the case and there is a petrol station eight minutes’ drive from the car rental drop off at 10410, Velika Gorica.
Where we stayed
Dream Hotel, Zagreb
As we didn’t arrive into Zagreb until 11.30pm on the Friday evening we booked Dream Hotel through Hotels.com at £59.24 for a family room for the first night. The hotel is a short distance from the airport, and they offer a complimentary shuttle. We emailed to book the transfer before leaving the UK and called once we had retrieved our baggage. The minibus arrived within 10 minutes and took us to the hotel. We had a family room which consisted of a double bed and two single beds, a kitchenette and en-suite bathroom. The accommodation was spotlessly clean and very comfortable.
In the morning we were served a complimentary buffet breakfast consisting of a hot breakfast, cereals, pastries, ham and cheese. It was very good and plentiful. I would definitely recommend Dream Hotel if you are looking for a stopover close to the airport.
Valamar Camping Zablace, Baska
We stayed at Valamar Camp Zablace in Baska on Krk Island. Our Vela Bay premium camping home included two bedrooms (one double with en-suite and one twin room with separate bathroom), a very well equipped kitchen, and a spacious terrace with outdoor seating and sun loungers (€505 for six nights). The homes were very modern and looked almost brand new. They were impeccably clean and we were provided with plenty of bath towels. A starter kit of toilet paper, washing up liquid, sponges, candles and matches were also provided – and supplies were plenty to last us for the whole week.
The beach and bakery were a few minutes’ walk from the camping home. The supermarket, promenade and an array of restaurants, bars and cafes were about a five minute walk away.
Baska
Baska is situated at the Southern end of Krk island. It has a lovely long pebble beach backed with a pedestrianised promenade lined with bars, restaurants, cafes and shops. During May the beach was quiet but sun loungers and umbrellas were available for hire should you wish. The older part of town, around the harbour has pretty town houses and St Lucy’s Church.
Things to do
The peak holiday season hadn’t started while we were in Baska so a lot of the amenities were still closed, or just setting up to open the following week.
On the beach in front of Camping Zablace there is a complex with trampolines and waterslides. The boys were very disappointed that they weren’t open yet! A short walk towards town there is crazy golf, bungee trampolines and bouncy castles (again not yet open).
Swimming
The beach is clean with lovely clear water. At the end of May the water temperature was a chilly 18 degrees but once submerged it was beautiful. As the weather was wet and windy on three of the days we made use of the swimming pool at Corinthia Baska Sunny Hotel. If you are staying at Valamar Baska Beach Camping then use of the hotel facilities is included. This is a great indoor pool with a toddler area, two jacuzzis, and a water fountain in the middle. There is also a large outdoor pool with children’s area and splash zone. There are plenty of loungers next to both the inside and outside pool meaning you can easily spend a few hours here.
Hiking
We did two hikes during the week. One was from Baska out to Rt Skuljica. Follow the red walking route from the Camping Zablace end of the beach, there is a car park at the start of the trail. The trail leads up a path and into the pine forests. Once through the forest you start to climb a steep rocky path. As you climb make sure you keep turning round as the views back over to Baska are spectacular. I hiked this trail in the evening and was the only person on the route, other than sheep. When you reach the top of the rocky trail there is a signpost to Rt Skuljica where you can look out to the Gates of Senj and Prvic Island. The narrow path leads through heather and down towards the sea on the other side of the headland. I didn’t go all the way down to Rt Skuljica as it was getting dark and I was hiking on my own so didn’t want to risk the walk back down the loose rocky path in poor visibility. I loved the hike though and would definitely recommend it, but not for small children.
The second hike was up to Hlam also called “Moon Plateau”. Head west out of Baska and up to the Church of St Ivan. From here follow the signs for the blue route up to the plateau which is approximate 550 metres above sea level. The route ends here but you can pick up the green route back down towards Zakam and then head onto the yellow route back towards the Church of St Ivan and back to Baska. This route took us two hours and gave some fantastic views over Baska. Again, I wouldn’t recommend this hike for small children due to the steep paths and loose footing.
Eating out in Baska
We generally had picnics at lunchtime with bread and baked goods from the fantastic bakery, Pekara ARS. The guys who worked here were so friendly and even went to the trouble of making my son a birthday cake. In the evenings we either cooked in our camping home or ate out. There are a huge number of restaurants in Baska, we ate at three during our week.
Mare
We had a family meal here on the evening of my son’s birthday. He had specifically requested pizza but this restaurant had a varied menu which suited all of us. The waiter was wonderful and when it started to rain moved us to an undercover table. The food was delicious and it was lovely to sit alongside the water and enjoy the views.
Francesca
Thanks to the in-laws, Dave and I had a rare date night and went to Francesca. It was slightly pricier than we would normally go for but was number one on Tripadvisor so we thought we would spoil ourselves. The restaurant only has seating inside the small dining room and doesn’t accept bookings so you may need to wait for a table. It is very personal and the wait staff were fantastic. The food was beautifully presented and totally delicious. This was the meal of the week.
Restaurant Baska
We had dinner on our last night in Baska here. It was also the evening that we celebrated my parents-in-law’s 40th wedding anniversary. Our table was on the pedestrianised street and had views of the water. This was a much larger restaurant and didn’t have such a personal feel. However, the food was still good and we had a lovely evening.
Where we visited
Fuzine
On our drive from Zagreb to Baska we stopped for lunch in Fuzine. This small, quiet town had a couple of places to eat and a lake to walk around and stretch our legs. We had lunch at Hotel Bitoraj Fuzine where we could sit outside on the veranda. They had a large menu, and good children’s menu. We recommend the goranska salary, which is a mixed meat platter for two people and the boar goulash. There is a selection of vegetarian dishes available as well.
Spilja Vrelo, Fuzine
After lunch we drove five minutes up the road to Vrelo Cave. This cave was discovered by accident in the 1950s and is 300 metres long. Visitors are guided through the cave at regular intervals during the day. The lady that guided us was very knowledgeable about the area and spoke excellent English. The river runs through the cave, which floods and is closed during heavy rains. There is a walkway with lighting which has step free access so is suitable for pushchairs and wheelchairs. Once inside the cave it can be chilly so take a jumper or cardigan with you, particularly for children. Entrance cost 30 kn for an adult and 25 kn for a child.
Krk Town
Aquarium / Terrarium
Unfortunately the week that we visited Croatia we had three days of wet weather. We decided not to let that dampen our spirits and went to the aquarium at Krk Town. Parking around this area is fairly busy but if you drive out of town (up the hill) you will find spaces on the side of the road that are free and also a gravel car park on the right.
The aquarium is on two levels and while not very big had a lot to entertain the boys. They went round it three times choosing their favourite fish and lizards.
Admission to the aquarium is free for children up to three years old. Three to twelve years are 20 kn and adults are 40 kn.
It is also possible to buy a joint ticket which provides access to the Tropical Aquarium just next to the main square in the city centre. This one didn’t seem to enthrall the kids quite so much but was another good option for keeping dry and entertained.
Frankopan family castle
This is a small but very well maintained castle. You can walk up the spiral stairs and around the outer wall which gives great views over the harbour and city roof tops. The boys enjoyed exploring the historic streets.
Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption
This is opposite the Frankopan castle in the old part of town and well worth a look around. The bell tower dominates the skyline in this part of town and was built in the 16th century.
Vrbnik
Less that a thirty minute drive from Baska is Vrbnik. Perched high on a cliff it is one of the oldest villages on the island of Krk. We arrived early in the morning before the tour groups had descended and wandered around the cobbled streets. There was very little traffic so it was a great opportunity to let the boys lead the way. Within the maze of streets leading up to the castle is “the narrowest street in the world”. This is signposted at various points and measures less than 45cm wide. The boys were able to race through but the adults had to turn sideways to fit their shoulders. The boys absolutely loved this.
The town is renowned for Zlahtina – a golden yellow wine. There are plenty of shops and wine cellars offering tasting sessions. Nada Vino Shop has a stunning balcony to sit and have a glass of wine overlooking the bay. From here there is a steep footpath down to the harbour.
Risnjak National Park
On our way back from Baska to Zagreb airport we stopped at Risnjak National Park for a walk and picnic lunch. There is plenty of free parking and a visitor’s centre with toilet. Access to the park cost 45kn for adults, and children under seven are free. We walked the Leska Path which is an easy 4km trail. It is well signposted and has information boards at regular intervals. Towards the end of the trail we found some secluded picnic tables to eat our lunch. There are bears in this national park so please make sure you do not leave any food or rubbish behind. The boys (three and five) both really enjoyed this trail and managed the distance and terrain with no issues.
Where have you visited in Croatia? We plan to go back and would love to hear your suggestions for our next trip.
Inspiring Adventure 
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