We spent a week in August on Lake Iseo, a picturesque lake located in the Lombardy region of northern Italy. Far less crowded than its more famous neighbours, Lake Como and Lake Garda, it’s the perfect destination for those seeking a more authentic Italian experience. It is the fourth largest lake in Lombardy and fed by the Oglio River, renowned for its stunning natural beauty, surrounded by lush green mountains and beautiful medieval towns.

One of the lake’s most notable features is Monte Isola, the largest inhabited lake island in Europe, which offers a peaceful retreat with no cars allowed on the island. There are also two smaller, private islands Loreto and San Paolo, which can be seen from the ferry and island itself but you cannot visit.

There is plenty to do on Lake Iseo over the course of a week, including swimming, walking, and exploring the historic towns that dot the shoreline. We had a rental car so drove around the lake stopping at various towns and swimming spots. These were our top picks.

Lovere

We stayed at an Airbnb apartment in Lovere. The town is known for its picturesque setting and has beautiful medieval architecture, including the Basilica of Santa Maria in Valvendra. It is possible to climb to the top of the Civic Tower for panoramic views of the town and lake. The lakeside promenade offers stunning views and a relaxing atmosphere. The main square slightly set back from the lake is surrounded by bars and restaurants and is a good place to soak up the atmosphere.

We recommend Bar Wendel for morning coffee and pre-dinner drinks – just beware of the very bold pigeons trying to steal your croissant! For great pizza and friendly locals go to All’Angolo in the old part of town. For dinner with a view then try Casa Bohtep.

Monte Isola

On our first day on Lake Iseo we caught the ferry from Lovere to Mont Isola. Our plan was to hike to the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Ceriola, at the highest point of the island for panoramic views.

Due to extreme temperatures, and two very reluctant boys, instead we got off the ferry at Siviano and walked around the island to Peschiere Maraglio. The first section of the walk was a steep uphill section and then along the road. In hindsight, we should have got off at Sensole to start the walk as this was the nicest section. 

We stopped at Barracuda Café for ice cream and coffee. Then swam at Parco giochi. There is no beach here but steps down the lake wall into the water. It was a popular swim area with lovely clear water and deep enough to jump in from the wall (always a plus point for swim spot in our family!)

Peschiera Maraglio has a lovely waterfront promenade with plenty of restaurants to choose from. We caught the ferry back to Lovere from Peschiera Maraglio which took an hour and a half, stopping at various villages along the lake on the way.

Riva di Solto

Riva di Solto is a quaint village known for its stunning natural scenery, including the L’orrido del Bogn bay with its dramatic rock formations. The village offers a peaceful retreat with charming streets, historic churches, and beautiful views of the lake. Next to Giardino dell Doana there is a lovely beach area. There is a restaurant just behind the beach and free parking on the opposite side of the road. We spent the whole day here and it was one of our favourite places on Lake Iseo.

Lido Nettuno, Sarnico

We stopped at Lido Nettuno during our drive around the lake as it looked like a good swim/lunch spot. There is paid parking on the opposite side of the road and it is 2 euros per adult to enter the lido, kids are free. There is a large grassy area with shade from large trees. There is a beach volley ball court, basketball court, café for drinks, snacks and ice cream and maintained toilets. A small beach area is next to the grass but most people swim from the large wooden walk way that juts out into the lake. There are steps from the walk way into the water making getting in and out easy. The highlight for the kids was being able to jump from the end of the walkway into the lake.

Iseo

Iseo is a bustling town that serves as a gateway to the lake. It offers a blend of historical sites, such as the Oldofredi Castle and the Pieve di Sant’Andrea, and modern attractions like the lakeside promenade. The town is also a hub for ferry services to Monte Isola. We walked through the pedestrianised centre, where there are plenty of restaurants and bars, and along the lakeside promenade. There are great views over to Monte Isola. We also had the best gelato from Gelateria Leon d’Oro, in the older part of town close to the ferry.

Walking the old road from Vello to Toline

The Vello-Toline cycle/pedestrian path is a flat, easy route that runs along the Eastern shore of Lake Iseo. It is about 5km long and offers great views of the lake with plenty of rest stops. We would recommend doing the walk in the morning when the path is shaded by the high cliffs. It gets very hot in the afternoon when in the full sun. The walk starts in Vello and can be reached by car via the SP 510 road or by train on the Brescia-Iseo-Edolo railway line. There is paid parking available in the centre of Vello but take change as the meters only accept cash here.

The walk is suitable for all ages and fitness levels, due to its flat terrain. We stopped for a coffee at Stefano’s Cove in Toline before making the return journey to Vello. Strava told us that the walk was in fact 12km return and by this point we were hot and hungry. We stopped for lunch and a swim at the Jazz Café which is directly at the start/finish of the old road in Vello. You are able to bring your own picnic or buy drinks and snacks from the bar/restaurant. Swimming here is either from steps into the lake or down a boat ramp (which gets slippery). It is fine for adults and older children but I wouldn’t recommend young children swim here.

Lido delle rose, Costa Volpino

This was the closest swimming spot to where we were staying in Lovere. It is a calm inlet from the lake so perfect when the afternoon winds pick up and the lake can get a bit choppy. There are shaded picnic spots with tables, and free parking. There may have once been a café here but it looked like it has closed down when we visited. There are very few other facilities in this area so it a natural and calm location.

Away from Lake Iseo

Borno Ski Area

It wouldn’t be a VP holiday if we didn’t visit a ski resort! The drive from Lovere took 45 minutes. There was plenty of free parking at the bottom of the ski lift and also a great spot for coffee. In the summer it is possible to catch two chairs to the top of Monte Altissimo.

You can walk to Croce Del M. Altissimo from the top which give views back down on Lake Iseo. This walk takes about 40 mins one way and starts through forest on narrow paths.

Once we had seen the view of the lake we turned back and walked from the chairlift down to the top of the first chair that we caught up. The plan was to take the chair back down to the bottom of the resort. However, the chairlift had a maintenance issue and was closed. The staff were amazing and offered us water while we waited for a jeep to come and pick us up to take us back down the mountain. We would have walked back down but they insisted on taking us. At the bottom there is an Adventure Park with high wires and zip lines, tubing, and mountain bike rental. Had we had more time here we would have done it all. On the way back to Lovere we stopped in Borno village which was gorgeous with narrow streets, a small main square, fountains, and a local market.

Lake Endine

Just a short drive from Lovere you can reach the smaller lake of Endine. It is known for its clear, dark green water and thick reeds along the banks, which provide habitat for a variety of fish and birds. You can swim in the lake, but if you dislike a lot of weed it may not be your favourite swim spot. It is also possible to sail, paddleboard, kayak and fish on the lake. K-Beach offers a shallow shelving beach with sun loungers, restaurant and bar. Parking here is free if you are customers at K-Beach.

The perimeter of the lake can be walked in about four hours, with paths connecting the nearby villages and ancient donkey paths leading to scenic hiking opportunities. We loved stopping for coffee and pastries at Pasticceria Sommia at the opposite end of the lake to Lovere.

Aquaplanet Darfo Boario Terme

As a treat for the boys, we went to Aquaplanet in Darfo Boario Terme, a popular water park in the Camonica Valley. It has a variety of outdoor pools, including an Olympic size pool, water slides, lazy river and outdoor games. There are also two indoor pools which you can enter under a separate ticket. I am not a huge fan of these places and when we arrived there was a queue across the car park. We preserved as we had promised the boys we would go and the queue actually moved pretty quickly. Once inside I was very pleasantly surprised. I was expecting it to be very crowded but there were loads of chairs and tables with umbrellas available on a large grassy area surrounding the Olympic pool. There were several other picnic and sunbathing areas throughout the complex.

We went on a week day and despite the long queue it remained relatively quiet all day. There were plenty of toilets, showers and changing rooms. There was also restaurant and snack bar. You are able to take in your own picnic and drinks too. We all really enjoyed the day and I would recommend a visit if you’re in the area and fancy doing something different away from the lake.